Both outputs of Shelly UNI are equipped with an Optocoupler (TLP172GM):
Thus, connecting an optocoupler with another seems not very consistent. Except the additional optocoupler would enhance the quite poor voltage (36Vpp) and current rating (100mA) of the devices in the Shelly UNI…
And, by the way: The above posted sketch will not work, because the outputs of the Shelly UNI are „dry“ circuits.
Nevertheless: Welcome to the forum!
Thanks! So, is there any way to do with UNI or should I use additional shelly 1 with 220V PS?
Both outputs of Shelly UNI are equipped with an Optocoupler (TLP172GM):
Thus, connecting an optocoupler with another seems not very consistent. Except the additional optocoupler would enhance the quite poor voltage (36Vpp) and current rating (100mA) of the devices in the Shelly UNI…
And, by the way: The above posted sketch will not work, because the outputs of the Shelly UNI are „dry“ circuits.
Nevertheless: Welcome to the forum!
Usually, a conventional door lock is activated with a current of 1 A or slightly more. Hence, you’ll need a relay with an AC coil rated for 15V. It is very likely that the voltage of your 15V transformer is breaking down during the activation of the door lock. Which will cause the Shelly UNI to loose its WLAN connection…
Keeping this in mind, I would recommend another solution: Supply the Shelly UNI with a small power supply (perhaps a plug-in type) with an output of 12V DC and a maximum current of 700mA. More current rating is harmless. Connect plus 12V DC to Shelly pin1 and minus 12DC to pin2. Grab a small relay with a 12V DC coil and connect the coil to minus 12V DC, the other coil wire to one of the OUT2 wires. The other OUT2 wire is tied to plus 12V DC. The relay contact is wired to door lock and 15V AC transformer. At last, get a simple diode from your dealer and connect it in parallel to the relay coil: The cathode of the diode (marked with a ring) to the pin of the coil with plus 12V DC, the Anode to the other pin of the coil.
You’ll get a much more reliable circuit!
Usually, a conventional door lock is activated with a current of 1 A or slightly more. Hence, you’ll need a relay with an AC coil rated for 15V. It is very likely that the voltage of your 15V transformer is breaking down during the activation of the door lock. Which will cause the Shelly UNI to loose its WLAN connection…
Keeping this in mind, I would recommend another solution: Supply the Shelly UNI with a small power supply (perhaps a plug-in type) with an output of 12V DC and a maximum current of 700mA. More current rating is harmless. Connect plus 12V DC to Shelly pin1 and minus 12DC to pin2. Grab a small relay with a 12V DC coil and connect the coil to minus 12V DC, the other coil wire to one of the OUT2 wires. The other OUT2 wire is tied to plus 12V DC. The relay contact is wired to door lock and 15V AC transformer. At last, get a simple diode from your dealer and connect it in parallel to the relay coil: The cathode of the diode (marked with a ring) to the pin of the coil with plus 12V DC, the Anode to the other pin of the coil.
You’ll get a much more reliable circuit!
Do you mean smth like this ? I tried that on breadboard and it works.
