Beiträge von writemike

Same issue here.

mumblingsages Any luck finding a fix?

/status reports:

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Just wanted to follow-up and say that I implemented both of these options and they both worked great. In the end, I went with the Shelly 1L design, above, so that I can wire up SW2 with a detached switch when the dimmer knob is no longer needed.

Thank you!

Thanks for the response. Unfortunately, there is not an extra cable from the second floor switch box to the ceiling light (Upstairs switch box pictured below).

Could things be wired differently if I used a Shelly 1? I have similar 2-way circuit wired in another room that uses a Shelly 1 (in the ceiling) and works very well (for 8+ months). Shelly 1 diagram below. Maybe I also shouldn't be doing this? Thanks for your help.

Has anyone been able to confirm this works? I have the same layout and wanted to check before linking Sx with L. I can confirm that the light switches are working very intermittently without the link between Sx and L. Maybe there is a better way? I would put the Shelly 1L in the downstairs switch box, but there is no room and the load is <20W so I need a neutral or bypass. Thanks!

Similar issue here. Dimmer 2 Switch, wireless switching stopped working so I took it out of the wall to replace/troubleshoot. I then rewired just the L and N for troubleshooting (No "O") on my workbench and it went poof with a spark and some magic smoke. Looks like the L and N shorted by the blast marks which also look very different to Phillipk's Shelly Dimmer 2 burn marks. Trying to get the reseller to replace it, but they are claiming that I wired it wrong. The new Shelly Dimmer 2 replacement, in the same switch/light configuration is working well. It was powering 8x Philips(5W) or Luce Bella(6W) LED globes (I'll get the ladder out for a specific model number if that would help?). Would have been running the latest firmware as of the beginning of March. Let me know if I can provide anymore details/photos.

Same question as above, but with the Shelly 1L instead. Wanted to use SW2 as a detached switch for another project once the wife realizes we never use the dimmer knob. Thanks for the response!

Same issue here, but I was able to resolve it! The Shelly bypass was having no effect on multiple (8) tested LED globes, 9W - 24W, $5-$13 AUD. All the LED globes had the same flickering outcome, some wiping the Shelly's configuration. I then realized that I had the bypass wired improperly, and instead of running parallel to the globe(load), I had it running between the globe and the neutral wire which just passed the neutral wire electricity. In the end, with the bypass installed correctly, I'm now not able to find an LED globe that doesn't work, testing the same batch as before. Hopefully this image will help someone else.

I also got it to work using a 43W OSRAM Classic Halogen bulb, without the Shelly Bypass, but those Halogen Bulbs run so hot!

What would be really helpful is if Shelly could provide a list of the makes and models of the globes/bulbs they used for successfully testing neutral-less Shelly implementations. I know that in this case, it was my own damn fault, but having a "known working" list of globes would have moved my troubleshooting efforts to the real problem instead of taking my frustrations out on the Shelly Support Forum.

Hello,

This might quickly turn into a lesson on searching Shelly Forums as I thought my question would be a common one. My wife wants an analog dimmer installed, which she will never use, and I already have a Shelly 1 successfully installed on the light switch. I was looking for a way to integrate a cheap, rotary, analog, dimmer knob to the existing setup and was wondering if I could just insert it inline between the light(load) and the "O" terminal on the Shelly 1? Is this a bad idea? Here is the wiring diagram I would like to present to my electrician (FYI, we are in Australia so it is Deta Dimmer Switch from Bunnings):

Thank you!