Beiträge von johnpsom

  • Clarification on negative power factor

    OK...thank you for your support (if you want to call it a support) ...

    When you want to provide support, do it so. Don't provide it like you are the smart guy and the other is the fool ...!!! I made a simple question, and your support was to have a trial and error, in something that from your last answer, it seems you know the reason but you probably don't want to share.

    That is my last comment, and i hope one of the moderators to have a look at this issue, cause i think you are breaking some of the rules. One for sure: being polite!

    Take care

  • Clarification on negative power factor

    Is this an answer to my question?

    AC is not for playing around! so since EM is measuring also both ways, turning around the clamp, it will show it as generative power which is not correct!
    So if you do not know the why, it is preferably to give no answer or say i do not know. it is not a bad think!

    by the way, here is the screenshot, showing exactly what i told you. Consumption showed with a -.

    VAR however remains negative, so that is why now the power factor is positive but the power is negative.

    Any ideas anyone?

    Thank you in advance.

  • Clarification on negative power factor

    Hi,

    I have a EM that open/close as well as measuring the power of the solar water heater those days that there is no sun.

    The power measured is for example 3700watts, however the power factor is -1 as well as the VAR is negative.

    Obviously the EM switch and the solar water heater are on the same phase.

    When checking the 3EM, the phase C where the solar water heater belongs, is showing correctly power factor 1.

    In the system there are no solar panels or anything that producing energy.

    Attached the 2 screenshots of EM and 3EM when solar water heater is on.


    Any idea why this is happening?

  • Shelly pro 3EM ready for photovoltaic

    Corvl you will need to do the following:
    1 3EM should be put after the main 3-phase fuse, so that to be protected, and put the transformers before the fuses so that to have the true power you drag from the grid. That same 3EM, will also have the ability to measure the other way round. The true power you inject into the grid (true = produced - consumption).
    The second 3EM should be installed right after the inverter, to measure what the pv have produced.

    With this settup you will be able to record at any given time the following:

    1) power produced (second 3EM)

    2) power consumed (first 3EM)

    3) aggregate power which will be positive or negative (first 3EM)

    The above will be per phase.

  • Shelly pro 3EM ready for photovoltaic

    On a single phase system that has a photovoltaic system, it is easy with either EM or 3EM.

    You only need 2 channels (em has 2 and 3em has 3 plus neutral).

    One channel measures the production and one channel measures consumption. Therefore you have input output independent.

    For a 3 phase system with a 3 phase photovoltaic, for independent measurement you will need two 3em, one for consumption and one for production, or 3 x em, one per phase.

  • Flickering with 4 Philips LEDs

    Hi there, do you have the Dimmer2 with or without Neutral?

    Dimmer2 needs at least 10w when without N, and also, at least in my case, when without N flickering is an issue (even when using with a Bypass).

    What i did (maybe it will work in your case) is the following:

    My living room ceiling light was with double sw on the wall, so that the 5 lamp light to have 1 sw for the 3 lamps and another for the other 2. I replaced the lamps with Phillips 4watt dimmable candle lamps, but, i had bridged the N on the ceiling with one of the lines going down to the double sw on the wall. Therefore now i have N to connect the Dimmer2. I placed a normal double button sw and everything is working fine.

    Have in mind that from my experience, everything works better if you have N in the wall switch somehow and if you use dimmable lamps DO NOT use 1L.

    Check also this on: Flickering issue with 1L without N

  • Flickering issue with 1L without N

    Hi all,

    i would like someone else also to verify the follow findings, when having 1L without N with or without Bypass v2.

    Dimmable Led bulbs: I tried 4 different vendors, none of them worked 100%. Some were flickering while on, some others when off.

    Non-dimmable Led bulbs: I tried the same vendors, but the non-dimmable version. They WORKED 100%.

    Bottom line, since none of the houses in Greece, have neutral or the potential to have neutral, at the switch, I took the decision to use Dimmable Led Bulbs with Dimmer 2 (it works perfectly with or without Bypass, since it has also anti-flickering debounce setting), and Non-Dimmable with 1L.

    Hope someone else to give a try and test if he/she have the same results as i had.

    Thank you.

  • SW1 & SW2 Dimmer 2 with Shelly Wall double switch

    Hi,

    I installed Dimmer2 on Shelly Wall double switch following the connection diagram of the shelly wall switch without N.

    So, the Red of the wall switch goes to L on dimmer, the other two on SW1 and SW2, and then the phase is in the other L and the lights are on the O.

    The setup is double button in the settings.

    Everything is working, however both buttons have the same functionality!!! It was supposed to be different, isn't it?

    Also the URL in actions is not working for any other device, unless it is for it self (for example http://localhost/light/0?brightness=25&transitiontime=1000)

    Any ideas?

    Thank you in advance

    John

  • Transformer factory calibration

    Hi, first following the instructions as the link above. Note that with 100 or even 300 watt load, you might get error when doing the calibration. So you need some high load during the callibration of each transformer. I open up the hot water relay (2kw) while i was calibrating the N phase for example.

    In most cases, the error (assuming you followed the instructions properly) are coming from low loads.

  • Conditional switch off

    Hello,

    In the script library, there is "Router Watchdog". This is really nice especially when the shelly plus controls something through an automation that requires network connection to close it.

    Example: Automation to control an irrigation system through Home Assistant using shelly plus to control the solenoid valve.

    The issue i am trying to solve is the following fail scenario:

    Automation started and send a command to Shelly to open the valve that it controls. The time that the Shelly as a switch will remain on, is not fixed, and it is related to other sensors of the home assistant implementation. During that time, if the shelly loses network, i want to finish the job and closed itself without the need to get the command from the automation. it is a fail-safe scenario that i think it can be done from the shelly itself. (obviously if there is a power cut-off, the valve closes itself so no need to have a fail-safe there)

    Any ideas about the script? is there anyone that can help me out?

    Thank you in advance

  • AC & DC voltages with Shelly1Plus

    Hi all,

    quick question to better understand a usage.

    1) in Lexicon the irrigating diagram shows that shelly is powered via 240VAC and the solenoid (that takes power from a converter) is controlled via shelly. Is it OK to power Shelly from the same converter with 24V DC?

    2) i suppose that the shelly is not powering DC devices right? in other words is not acting as a converter. Right?