Beiträge von SebMai

it's somewhere explained but.

You have to install the shelly as shutter with two bulbs and two switches (as end positions)

Than you have to measure the working time from open to close and from close to open.

Now you start the calibration, when you have the working time you take off the first lamp.

When than the other is on you turn the first on back, and than you have to turn off the second.

That you do all the time and at one point you finish the calibration.

Wiring is than,

L=L

N=N

O = lamp - switch - n

(By both the same)

@Ville open over channel, than settings , and at least mode , there you can choice.

petrtvaroha you can't do this only with the 2.5 you need two relays.

And the calibration dosen't work in DC mode because the 2.5 has only power metering with AC mode.

When you need to calibrate than do this with the two bulbs and switches trick.

You need to know how it is switching, if the common is -

Than yes you can use a 2.5 , but without calibration, only with time or as momentary.

thx for you feedback

only if you imitate a momentary switch.

And set the button type to momentary too

Mit Firmware 1.7 unter dem Button

Aber damit ist schon mal ein Fortschritt.

Könnte sein das einer der beiden nicht mehr richtig schaltet.

Könntest ja wenn du Lust hast dann morgen beide mal testen.

Die fehlen bei mir noch

Nun kurz aus seiner jetzigen Position entfernen und nur mit einem Schalter/ Taster und Lampe testen

mhm the load shouldn't a problem, because it's rated for 3500W, I don't think you have more.

But when it's only there, than is something wrong.

Yes, a diagram can eventually help.

It isn't need a nice one, only one for understanding ?

Reverse Inputs ist aber nicht aktiv?

Nur auf Nummer sicher gehen

okay, when the new one is working.

But it's curious that you have only 5V at SW.

By us (with 230V supply) are round the half at SW

Is it only when it is switched by app or by switch too?

Can you show some pics from your installation?

Can you make some pics or draw a schematic from your wiring?

What is your power supply?

Button type?

Kommt drauf an wie gut die Schalter trennen, würde es einfach testen, einmal abklemmen geht schnell.

Aber auch wenn es das dann nicht ist, gibt es wenn sie später an sind Probleme.

Denn es darf am SW keine Lampe/ Kontrollleuchte sein, dadurch erkennt der shelly das Schalten nicht mehr.

Wenn es vorher lief und nun Probleme macht, würde ich erstmal versuchen ohne Broker, eventuell hat sich da etwas eingeschlichen.

Wenn es dann immer noch ist, den shelly einmal ausbauen und einzeln testen.

Moment, du hast Schalter mit Kontrolllicht, sind diese an oder aus? Mach mal einen Test Klemm die mal ab oder nimm das Licht raus, denke das liegt das Problem.

Weil selbe Phase nach der Sicherung, ist wie in der direkten Leitung.

Is the source voltage 120V or 230V?

Because normal is 1/2 from source at SW, so you can switch with L or N.

I think you have another problem.

Wrong wired or switch with indication lights?

you need fw 1.7

Than localhost.

And when it isn't working.

Try after you set the action an reboot, sometimes this is needed for working

when you want that the device talks to himself you have to use

http://localhost/relay/0?turn=off&timer=10