Beiträge von thgoebel

Thanks for the clarification! Now, we have to find the second junction box with manual switch in the hallway, where the two wires (black and grey) ends. This is the junction box where Shelly should be installed.

Ein Test der Helligkeit der Lichterkette mit einem 24V DC-Netzteil wäre einen Versuch wert. Gut, das ist kein wirkliches Dimmen. Aber wenn damit der gewünschte Effekt erzielt werden kann, könnte man ein einstellbares, SELV-zertifiziertes DC-Netzteil nutzen (China-Ware). Bitte beim Test mit 24V auf die Polung achten, sonst sind die LEDs hinüber! Also zuerst mit dem beigegebenen Netzteil die Polung feststellen und dann die 24V korrekt anschließen.

Nachtrag: Alternativ käme auch ein Potentiometer mit 200 bis 250 Ω, 2 Watt in Frage, was in die Zuleitung der LED-Kette eingeschleift wird (Serienschaltung). Zum Nachrechnen: Die LED-Kette wird mit 80 bis 100mA betrieben. Ein Widerstand von 120Ω verursacht somit einen Spannungsabfall von rd. 12V. Damit könnte man das mitgelieferte Netzteil weiter nutzen. Tipp: Solche Potentiometer werden auch unter dem Begriff „Entbrummer“ angeboten.

If I remember correctly, the Shelly plus1PM has an extra 12V DC input terminal. No tinkering would be necessary to test the function with 12V supply!

Addendum: Sorry, I was wrong - only the Shelly plus 1 has an extra 12 V DC terminal! Thus, DIYROLLY ‘s proposition is the only way to test if the Shelly is still working with 12V DC supply.

Würde einen Shelly UNI empfehlen! Der kann mit 24V DC gespeist werden und die beiden potentialfreien Ausgänge passen sehr schön an die beiden Tastereingänge des Steuergeräts.Überdies ist der UNI schön klein und passt u.U. noch mit dem Steuergerät in eine UP-Dose.

The defective component is the first step-down converter, regulating mains voltage to 12V DC. The IC is named BP2522. Unfortunately, data sheet is in Chinese language only…

Addendum: Possibly, the defective Shelly plus1PM is still working with 12V DC supply!?

Zitat von tomasr

The second wago connects the neutral wires (there are not a green-yellow wago).

But I see a Wago with green/yellow wires in this picture:

I called this junction box “box B”. And in this junction box should be a wire with permanent live potential.

Whereas this junction box

is called “box A”. This is the junction box where you’ve installed the Shelly 1, right? And the brown wire in terminal “IN” of the switch has permanent live potential, isn’t it?

Next task for you: Find out, where the brown wire in box A (single wire in Wago) ends! Is it to find in box B? Please find an Tag this wire in box B - we need it later!

Thanks for the voltages! Did you measure with reference to neutral?

Zitat von tomasr

In second box is not permanent phase at all. This box has permanent phase and wire to lights.

Please explain, what is meant with “first box” and “this box”! I recognised junction box A with single brown wire in Wago (no permanent live potential on this wire), and junction box B with green/yellow wires in Wago.

Zitat von tomasr

One conductor in a wago is not a permanent phase. The permanent phase is the wire in the IN switch.

Bingo! The Shelly must be mounted in the other junction box!

I’m sorry, but without measuring the voltages between a known reference potential it will be impossible to give further hints. Especially the single brown wire in the Wago has to be determined if it has live potential. This is needed for the integration of the Shelly at this point!

Many thanks for the sketches! Would please explain what “x” and “ok” means in the sketch “voltage states”? Concrete voltages between the referenced terminal and neutral would be much better!

Best practice would be to return to the roots: Please draw a sketch depicting your rooms, the switches and lights. And please explain what you want to do with the Shelly!

Please have a look at this diagram:

This shows your Shelly 1 with terminals L, N and SW. The manual switch is connected between L an SW. Imagine the switch contacts are closed: In this case exists a short circuit between terminals L and SW. Thus, zero voltage must be measured between L and SW! With open position of manual switch 3V DC should be measured between L and SW.

If - as you mentioned - zero voltage was measured in both positions of manual switch, the switch must be broken or badly installed!

Zitat von tomasr

So what is key is that when the switch is on, the voltage is not on the SW contact.

Between terminals SW and L of the Shelly 1 should be a voltage of approx. 3V DC if the switch is open. Switch closed: Voltage between L and SW should be zero! Please confirm this!

Thanks for telling more details! IMHO, the issue is located in the 3-way switches: I assume, there is another 3-way switch, with live potential at the common of the two switches and a black and a grey wire (the corresponding wires), leading to the above pictured switch. Possibly, one of the two switches is faulty (may be both?) e.g. it has too large contact resistance. This can be determined by measuring the switch on the workbench (without live wires!) in several switch positions. Unfortunately, the Shelly 1 is activated with a very small current. Thus, circuit without the Shelly would be operating, due to the mains voltage across the switches, but going faulty with Shelly connected.

Just for test purposes you could otherwise remove the yellow/green wire to Shelly terminal SW and add an extra single pole switch between live potential (terminal L) and terminal SW. If there is no flickering in this test scenario and the lights can be operated by the extra switch, the issue is clearly in the 3-way switches and/or the wiring between them...

Zitat von tomasr

Could you advice me how to measure it?

I'm sorry - but this cannot be done remotely! The electrician has to inspect the whole premises.

Zitat von tomasr

I understand you but lights start flicker when click on switch (position on), but relay does not click. On SW is no voltage.

Is it possible to turn the lights on via the Shelly cloud or the WebUI? Are the lights still flickering even if they were switches by the WebUI or the cloud app? Are there any entries in event log? (Shelly Cloud)

Would recommend to let an electrician test the wiring, especially the issue with the neutral conductor!

Zitat von tomasr

There must be some reason why the shelly don't click.

The first issue is to get a common understanding: If the Shelly didn’t click in the moment you’re switching the light on, you wouldn’t get light - either with, nor without flickering! Same situation when you switch off the light: No click - light stays on. In both situations the must be clicking.

A hint to the issue would be, if the Shelly is clicking abruptly during the phase lights are on and NO manual operation of the switch happened! This was the objective of my question above.

Bitte probeweise mal Sx und SW1 bzw. SW2 mit einer Drahtbrücke verbinden!

Sehe ich hier „dicke Backen“ beim 100μF-Elko? Würde, wenn das stimmt, auf ein Temperaturproblem hinweisen….

Überschlagsrechnung: Ein 15kW Brenner verbraucht in einer Stunde rd. 1,5 Liter Heizöl (bei einem Energieinhalt von 10kW/l). Bei dem ersten Durchflußmengenmesser (1.800 Imp./l) wären das 0,75 Impulse/sek. Da käme ein Shelly 1 locker mit - ein Shelly UNI möglicherweise nicht mehr. Die Messeinrichtung wird noch etwas träger, wenn man den Reedkontakt entprellen muß (Tiefpass!).

Is there some kind of corrosion at the end of the black wire: