Wir hatten das vor Wochen bereits einmal im Forum. Sieht so aus, als handele es sich um einen VDR plus Picofuse. Schneidest Du bitte den Schrumpfschlauch mal auf, damit wir sehen, was drinnen ist? Oder ich kaufe mir einfach einen Bypass…
Nachtrag:
A lot of - sorry for this word - bullshit:
In theory it should be a fairly simple mod to rectify this as previously mentioned in this thread.
No, Sir, this is not simple to implement!
Please refrain from giving this kind of advice. It’s dangerous!
Nothing more to say - I’m out of this thread.
If I did it with other shelly products (like the shelly 1) it would be immediately fried since GND is connected to my AC line voltage, right?
No. Why should it be fried, if PIR electronics is isolated from mains network?
Another good bye…
You are invited to do some research at the innards of a Shelly! You may skip some work in reading some of the threads in „Shelly inside“. Unfortunately, most of the posts are in German language. But I’m sure you’ll solve this issue…
Good bye!
I'm talking about wiring the back side like this
You may frankly do this if you assure that PIR has adequate protection against accidental contact by human parts. And not only with Shelly 1L…
The ESP8266 is sufficiently grounded from the AC Line voltage to pass UL certification and to not randomly blow up when wired correctly.
The ESP8266 is directly linked with terminal L of Shelly (and directly with terminal Sx of Shelly 1L). Wonder how UL certification was passed with this restriction…
Don’t get your point. Using a separate 3,3V DC source is as costly and elaborate as using a 12V DC source to supply the whole Shelly!?
And by the way: IMHO it is not possible to separate the GPIO header totally from the internal ground potential of Shelly. This would cost more than traces to cut.
Allterco (they design and produce the Shellies) is offering a solution to use the GPIO port: It’s called Shelly Add-On and implements a galvanic separation between GPIO data lines and the Shelly‘s power supply.
Shelly 1L tend to make LED lamps flicker. Thus, I would propose to add a Shelly Bypass in parallel to the lamp. A snubber does not fulfill the same demands.
What wattage has the LED lamp?
And by the way:
(A) Welcome to the forum!
(B) A Shelly Bypass is totally different from a snubber. Both parts are solving different issues!
But I'm not talking about flashing the Shelly.
By cutting that trace at the pin header and adding a jumper to the actual DC ground it's much safer, not more dangerous.
But me.
Adding an application to GPIO pins, needs the following precautions:
In every situation a Shelly is linked with low voltage accessories, low voltage supply of the whole application or a sophisticated prevention against electric shock is mandatory!
This is my overall point: To prevent other users to get in danger.
By cutting that trace at the pin header and adding a jumper to the actual DC ground it's much safer, not more dangerous.
Would you be so kind to explain that with a little sketch?
For the records: Would like to invite a member of the moderator‘s team ( @66er) to eye up this thread.
I could cut the trace leading to the GND pin on the programming header
…and this would be absolutely dangerous! Flashing a Shelly is possibly without mains supply only! The ESP8266 must be supplied by the adapter and with 3,3V DC. There are some adapters delivering 5V, which will kill the ESP immediately.
In a perspective of security, the Shelly 1L isn’t much better than other Shellies. Have a look at the innards and you’ll understand:
Der Einbauort des Powerline-Adapters scheint ausschlaggebend zu sein. Liegt die vielgenutzte Steckdose günstiger in Bezug auf die im Garten installierten Shellies? Eventuell die Lieblingssteckdose durch eine Doppeldose ersetzen?
Die Schutzfolie am Schaltkasten links muß entfernt werden - die stört des WLAN-Empfang!
(SCNR)
Spaß beiseite: Wenn Du den Powerline-Adapter probeweise auf den alten Platz steckst - ist dann wieder alles in Ordnung?
Indeed - in this case you’ll need a Shelly 1L, and possibly a bypass. You should wire the Shelly 1L according the following diagram:
Please forget the second switch shown in the diagram! Connect pin L of your switch to pin Sx of Shelly 1L and the arrow pin with pin SW1 of Shelly. If your bulb has a wattage of less than 20W, you’ll need an bypass too.
Addendum: Sorry - was too slow (or have used too many letters). @66er reached the goal at first…
GPIO GND is internally linked with pin L (at almost all Shelly actors). Exception: Shelly 1L - GPIO GND is linked with Sx. Another exceptions are Shelly RGBW2 and Shelly UNI due to low voltage supply…
Addendum: In every situation a Shelly is linked with low voltage accessories, low voltage supply of the whole application or a sophisticated prevention against electric shock is mandatory! The lives of your family and yours deserve such a precaution!
Die Überwachung eines funktionalen Stromkreises (hier Pumpe mit vorgeschaltetem Druckschalter) ist nicht direkt mit dem SW-Eingang eines Shelly möglich, sondern bedarf eines zusätzlichen Schaltmittels (Koppelrelais, Optokoppler oder „Bukowski-Draht“) um das Ansprechen des Shelly sowohl bei L- als auch bei N-Potential aufzuheben. Hinweise dazu finden sich im „Shelly inside“-Bereich des Forums.
Auch wenn (drei) Feinsicherungen vor den Klemmen VA, VB und VC eines Shelly 3EM sitzen, schützen sie den Shelly vor größerer Zerstörung, falls eine der drei Dioden des Netzteils ausfällt. Wird der Schaden auf die Dioden begrenzt, ist der Shelly reparierbar. Entstehen jedoch Lichtbögen im Innern des 3EM, ist ein Reparaturversuch aussichtslos.
Mit einem Shelly plus 1 geht das einfach über die Timerfunktion.
Faustregel: 1Ω pro Volt, 0,1μF pro Ampère.
(Quelle: http://www.dse-faq.elektronik-kompendium.de/dse-faq.htm#F.25.1)
Bei 500 W an Netzspannung somit 220Ω/0,2μF. Die von Allterco im Shop vertriebenen 100Ω/0,1μF sind jedoch ebenfalls verwendbar.
Ok. That happens…
I want to explain the necessary changes of diagram prior to answer your questions:
Due to the fact, we have no switching box which contains live potential AND wire to the bulb, we have to use this diagram:
At switch 1 position, Shelly 1L has to be installed. Wire to the bulb must be connected to terminal L of Shelly because we have no spare wire to the switches to use Sx-SW switching. Thus, both switches must switch with potential at terminal O of Shelly.
Wiring of both switches has to be modified: One of the NO/NC contacts is left open, the NO contact is used only. With this measure, live potential is fed to switch 1 location.
The rest is straightforward as shown in the first sketch, but with two switches now.
To your questions:
(A) Sx terminal of Shelly 1L is at live potential, but should not have an extra connection to a live wire. Thus, switching with Sx is done with „dry“ contact from SW to Sx. The Shelly is activated by a very large current flowing out of pin SW to pin Sx, driven by approximately 3V DC, but at live potential!
(B) Shelly 1L is a bit exotic in the Shelly family: Whereas most other Shellies are activated by current flow from SW input to pin L, Shelly 1L can be activated by a current flowing either from SW to Sx (as described above) or from SW to O. Because in your application an O wire is not available at both positions of the switches, we must reverse the Shelly: power supply is via terminal O and switched wire is via terminal L. This is possible because the Shelly is a two-wire device. Load and power source may be interchanged.
Addendum: Don’t forget to install a bypass in parallel to the bulb if power rating of the bulb is less than 20W (IIRC)!
Addendum 2: I forgot the smart bulb - sorry! Thus, button type must be set to „detached“ instead of „toggle“ and power on default mode to „on“! Bypass is mandatory!
