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Beitrag
B. Shelly1.
Shelly usually works with
230V supply voltage, except for the few battery powered devices such as H & T.
Even if it is never heard like:
Please observe the
5 safety rules and use suitable and approved testing and measuring tools
The 5 safety rules at a glance2.
If
startup problems occur, there are already some threads and lexicon entries that can help. Just have a look at the appropriate subforum or use the search.
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Gast10
11. August 2019 um 12:28
Thanks
@66er
I made my SSID visible. Now I can connect the shelly motion detector to my network. I didn't change the SSID name though (still has the underscore in it).
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Hi there,
I have same question.
I set up a scene to turn a light on when motion is detected. But can't figure out how to make it work. Any tips or advice?
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Tips for beginners B2 is your friend theyaman . 
Sorry I didn't get you ... B2 ?
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Hi there,
Not sure what problem we are talking about exactly here but I struggled a lot connecting my brand new (and first) motion detector.
I have many other Shelly relays and am using them without any problems. When trying to install and configure my motion sensor I could not successfully connect it to my WiFi. I gave a try connecting it to my "visitor's" WiFi. It was successful. One difference in my visitor's WiFi SSID is that there is no underscore in it. In addition the password is different and the visitor's SSID is not hidden.
Could the underscore in the SSID be the problem?
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Hi,
Difficult to answer the question without knowing a bit more:
- Are you using any sort of data connection on your device with the app if not the wifi ?
- Are the shelly switches connected to the cloud?
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Hi there,
Sharing this as it may help others.
I have a bunch of Shelly devices. I first installed a couple of Shelly 1 without any problems. Then had to install a 1L for a switch without neutral. After installing it, I thought something was wrong with the device as the physical switch did not work at all to turn the light on or off when wired in SW1 only. The device could be controlled by the app though. I tried with a spare 1L. Behaviour was the same. Then, I did give a try on SW2 only (without connecting SW1) and the physical switch was working. I noticed the same behaviour on my second Shelly 1L (I've only got 2 Shelly 1L).
Cheers 
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Great, thanks a lot. Will give it a try, but first need to find an electrician for this job.
Will update this post with the result.
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Hi there,
I currently have a bunch of Shelly 1, Shelly 1L, Shelly 2.5, Shelly Dimmer 2, Shelly i3 and Shelly Button 1 installed to control lights - everything is working as expected.
I am moving to the next step which is: controlling blinds with Shelly.
My current blinds are controlled via a wireless remote controller - I have no physical wired switch. The setup is the following:
I am looking to add a Shelly 2.5 to allow me control the blinds. This should allow me controlling the blinds either with my current remote controller or via Shelly App.
For sure I will use one Shelly 2.5 per blind motor.
My idea is to connect the Shelly 2.5 between the "RTS slim receiver" and the motor.
My questions
1. Does anyone have a similar configuration?
2. Does a Shelly 2.5 work for this?
3. Would it be correct connecting the Shelly 2.5 between the "RTS slim receiver" and the motor ? (would still need to connect Neutral in addition to the outputs from the receiver)
4. Any other advice? (I don't want to use a box)
Cheers!!
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I see.
Thanks for the quick answers.
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Hi there,
I would like to use a Shelly Dimmer for a halogen lamp which is 1000W. I see the max for Dimmer 2 is 220W. Does anybody know if Shelly has any plans for a Dimmer that would handle lamps up to 1000W?
Thanks!
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Thanks a lot froudy for asking that question. And thanks a lot SebMai for the answer, this is exactly what I was looking for before ordering my Shelly Dimmer as I don't have the opportunity to use a switch where the light I want to dim is located. So I will use a Shelly i3 to control the Shelly Dimmer.