Beiträge von Scothular

Not sure if you have given up on this, I almost have but I am stubborn!

As I mentioned there are two lights on the two switches, if I connect the shelly to the first one (tested by disconnecting one of the switched lives until established which is first in the series) and disconnect the second the loop of the switched live that goes to the second light, all works as expected.

in fact if I leave SW loop connected for the second light, but just remove the bulbs, then the first light/shelly works as expected.

Does this help with diagnosis?

The plot thickens....

I just wired up another light with the same wiring, works exactly as expected.

So something clearly up with this particular lamp.... all suggestions gratefully received!

+ive on L, -ive on SW (this is well outside of things I know about so do correct me if I am doing this incorrectly)

Few images of what I am seeing, incase I am doing something dumb!

Ah okay, that is outside of my knowledge, interesting!

Your understanding of the symptoms are 100% correct.

Not sure if relevant, however I did notice that if I cut power from the breaker box, the shelly just has time to send an 'OFF' change from the SW before it is fully drained of power. Of course at this stage it is inaccessible.

Oh, surprising, is the 80v a 'ghost/phantom voltage' ?

Configuration is thus:

Sorry, took a while to find the correct leads for the voltmeter!

I think you may be on to something, unless I am reading this wrong, ~240 when on as expected, but still ~80v when off, I assume this means the shelly does not register this as off. Any ideas at all while there would still be 80v floating on the wire?!

This (common disconnected as I was testing)

Control Lamps, does these mean lights on in the switches? - no they are really boring 1 gang switches, nothing fancy.

I am, permanent live is taken from the live loop in the rose (center terminal block on my original image) and feeds both I & L connections - confirmed as the shelly remains on line regardless of wall switch activity, and I am able to control the lighting from the shelly interface.

Ah, understood, agreed that the diagram you posted is much clearer!

I set the switch to Edge, also tried all the other settings for good measure, I even broke out a new identical shelly, I am stumped

I have been staring at this long enough for my eyes to go crooked, however are they not two different illustrations of the same wiring?

Both are switching hot live for (SW), taking permanent live to the shelly (L&I) ,sharing a neutral (N), and the relay is switching live (O) I honestly cannot see the difference, are my old eyes failing me?

As a test I hooked the shelly L & N to the neutral and switched live in the rose, sure enough flicking the wall switch powers up/down the shelly as I would have expected this confirms to me that the wall switches work they way I have drawn and that the polarity is correct.

Could it be a software side thing, it's changed a bit since I last used it, do I need to setup up actions in order for it to do anything?

Hi!

Thanks for getting back to me, it appears to be like like this (image borrow from internet)

To my mind it should be largely irrelevant given I am installing in the rose of one light fitting (I don't expect to be able to control both light fittings from the shelly, just the one!)

Hi,

Looking for some insight please, I am following this diagram to install a shelly 1 plus mini in a ceiling rose, the room has two lights both controlled at the same time by one of two switches. Once wired in the relay works and I am able to control the light, however the wall switches have no impact on the light fitting with the shelly - the other one responds as expected, the shelly switch input is marked as on regardless.

I appreciate there is some complexity with the dual switches, but given I am installing in the rose of just one of the lights I was under the impression it would not be impactful, any ideas what I am missing here?

I have tried all the switch setting combinations I can on the shelly itself, I would have expected 'edge switch' to be the correct setting.

I am in the UK with no neutral to switch.